2019 Jimny audio upgrades

I’m still waiting on some parts, but here’s some documentation on doing audio upgrades on the JB74 Jimny – and applies to the JB64, too. Where I know them I’ll add part numbers but also make sure to check with dealerships as a lot of this is off sketchy printouts people have got in some of the Jimny groups on FB or forums.

This is actively being worked on as of August-September 2025, so the article will look a little incomplete while I change from one set of upgrades to another.

Jump to section:

Parts list

Standard head unit, 5.25″ speakers, OEM upgrade brackets (2020-2025)

Why I picked what I did: Rockford Fosgate speakers were a bit more accessible (plus quite a lot cheaper) than the 13 cm factory upgrade Pioneers. I also quite like how they sound, so it was worthwhile.

Some aftermarket stereo places are now making different sized spacers; a lot are 3D printed and there are differing reports about item QA/QC and fitment/size tolerances. The factory spacers, if you buy them through various online sellers, are perfectly fine. They work with a lot of 5.25″/13cm speakers, at most you have to drill a couple of extra mounting holes.

  • Front speaker mounts: Suzuki 5.25″ plastic speaker brackets/spacers, part number 99197-78R00
  • Rear speaker mounts: Suzuki 5.25″ metal speaker brackets, part number 99197-78R00 (possibly R10 for some markets)
  • Front and rear speakers: Rockford Fosgate R1525X2. I did have to modify the factory brackets a small bit to make these easy to bolt up.
  • Connectors to make up the speaker connectors to the wiring harness: Narva 56272BL though there are more affordable options than in 2020 when I pieced this together: Aerpro APS58 for example.

In late 2022, as I converted my car to mostly being a 2 seater, I removed the rear speakers and sold the brackets. Thanks to inflation this basically made the factory brackets for the doors to be cost neutral, so this total install cost me about $170 for speakers and connectors.

If you are looking for speaker spacers for 5.25″ speakers then I can vouch for these 3D print files. I printed them in PLA, put in some brass inserts for the speaker mounts (for nicety reasons) and they work fine.

Replacement 9″ head unit, 6.25″ split speakers, external amplifier (2025+)

I’ve been waiting for options in flush mounted stereos to come out, and now there’s a few 9″ double-din trapezoidal form factor head units this is much more accessible. This is using what are the premium factory accessory speakers from Japan. As I mostly have the rear seat area as a luggage area, I only wanted to run front speakers. I also finally installed an underseat subwoofer to add some much needed bass.

Total upgrade cost to do this full setup is about $1600, though that did include buying the underseat subwoofer 2nd hand and doing my own wiring. I also got a good discount on the stereo and the fascia through a sale. Shopping around for the Carrozzeria speaker set and mounts also paid dividends, as it was a lot cheaper than most sellers would sell all 3 combined (even including postage!)

  • Front speakers: Pioneer Carrozzeria TS-F1640SII
  • Front speaker door mounts: Pioneer UD-K301
  • Front tweeter mounts: Pioneer UD-K124
  • Head unit: Pioneer DMH-AP6650BT
  • Fascia: Car Audio Connect FASUZUKIJIMNY2018ON9
  • Amplifier: MTX TN150.2
  • Under-seat subwoofer: Underseat subwoofer: Kicker 11HS8
  • Wiring: mostly custom, see the making up your own wiring harness section

Head unit

Wiring details

Note: since I have a car with the Bosch 7″ infotainment system, I have gone off that. The head unit fitted to lower spec cars, and the temporarily used Australia 9″ Android based unit, probably have different wiring. I believe the car side wiring – which I am showing here – probably is the same so you might find this info useful.

5 door Jimny XLs use a Clarion sourced unit with a 24 pin connector for which I have very little info (and I don’t have a 5 door to do my own verification). At the bottom of the page is where I’ll collect info as I come across it, though note it will probably never be a focus of this site to expand too far into 5 door territory.

There is an additional blue connector to the right of the antenna plug, which is the GPS antenna, but apparently I never photographed all of the connectors…

The 2022 Directed head units fitted to 3 door Jimnys in Australia just adapt to the factory wiring, as per this pic from Kieren Gretschmann on a post in an Australian Facebook group:

To illustrate what each connector does and its pin layout, the connectors are going to be labelled as they sit in the car, e.g. with the primary harness this has the clip part pointing down. This is upside-down to how Suzuki draw connectors, if you happen to compare it to a factory wiring diagram. I have used the numbering convention from the wiring diagram, so this is all consistent. I didn’t photograph the antenna connector as it’s not something people commonly ask for.

Main harness

Connector on radio is a Sumitomo TS series connector: 12×0.050″ pins, 8×0.090″ pins but with a shell used for Honda and Suzuki radios.

Pin numberWire colourDescription
1Light green“RADIO” fuse: fuse 51, 15A, inside cabin; permanent power
2RedIllumination
3WhiteFront left speaker +ve
4RedFront right speaker +ve
5PurpleRear left speaker +ve
6PinkRear right speaker +ve
7Unused and unknown
8WhiteHands free switch of steering wheel controls
9Beige“ACC” fuse: fuse 66, 5A, accessory switched power
10Unused – might be signal to antenna/amplifier remote turn-on
11BlackGround
12PurpleFrom gauges – Vss?
13BlueFront left speaker -ve
14YellowFront right speaker -ve
15BrownRear left speaker -ve
16BeigeRear right speaker -ve
17This appears to be used with the automatic emergency calling function for some parts of the world
18PurpleTo BCM: vehicle speed sensor (Vss) output from BCM
19GreenAudio switch of steering wheel controls
20PinkAudio switch of steering wheel controls (also links to hands-free control buttons – common for both functions?)
Potentially ground for steering wheel controls based on other users’ feedback

APP071 appears to be the Aerpro universal harness to adapt this main harness to the ISO harness arrangement.

Steering wheel harnesses are always a bit tricky as they multiplex signals, so it’s not a simple wiring arrangement for this; aerpro CHSZ6C appears to have you covered here.

Hand brake connector

Connector is a Yazaki 7283-5830, needing a 7282-5830 to mate with it if you’re making up your own cables.

Pin numberWire colourDescription
1BeigeHandbrake switch
2BrownReverse signal
(from junction box)
3PurpleVss from BCM
4
5

USB socket

Unsure what the specific plug is if you want to make up your own, but shared with some Subarus for use as a USB connector.

Nothing too difficult here, though the wiring is not perfectly specified in the factory wiring diagrams. I’ve traced it through from the USB connector you plug a phone into all the way back to the head unit cable, but I would 100% verify this before making your own cables up.

Rear camera

Connector is the same as the 5 pin connectors used for aftermarket short Toyota dashboard switches: IL-AG5-5S-S3C1 and the mating connector if you’re making up your own wiring is IL-AG5-5P-S3C1.

Interestingly the car side wiring for this is not included in factory wiring diagrams, at least for Australian cars with the Bosch 7″ head unit. Note I’ll be doing any writeup from this based on the reverse camera fitted to those Australian cars: the reverse camera was only ever fitted once they arrived in Australia. This is also why the reverse cameras for Australia do not feature gridlines for parking assistance and cannot turn them on in the head unit; they are not a support function of the camera supplied.

It doesn’t help that the wires are mostly black, and noone seems to have properly documented this. I’ll keep digging and updating this as I go.

Pin numberWire colourDescription
1Thin blackAus cars: unused
2NoneUnused
3WhiteVideo + ?
4Thick blackVideo – ?
5Thin blackAus cars: unused

The commercially provided adapters are reported to not work correctly. Anecdotally, stereo installers have told me there’s a couple of pins to flip but I haven’t yet dug around to sort this out. The aerpro adapter they specify is APVSZ01, however, this is the one that I’ve not tested & may need a pin or two swapped to work correctly.

I have 4 main sources for trying to independent trace what the wiring does:

  1. Factory installation guide for the reverse camera to suit the 7″ Bosch units (part number 99195-78RA0-000)
  2. This thread on BigJimny discusses that the ‘red wire’ gets permanent power
  3. A Facebook comment from one of the Australian Jimny groups from the one person who showed what they did to make their factory reverse camera work with an aftermarket adapter
  4. Another FB comment about changes they did for compatibility with a Kenwood head unit (including steering wheel controls).

To ensure longevity in case of comment deletion, the following image is from the 3rd source, based on someone repinning the Aerpro connector and seemingly getting the factory Australian reverse camera to work:

From https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10159888442789755&set=p.10159888442789755&type=3

The wiring shown on the installation notes for the factory reverse camera is as follows:

Clearly a bit more digging is needed to correctly sort out the wiring!

Further digging illustrates one company selling a different type of adapter: https://car-solutions.com/en/camera-connection-cable-for-suzuki/ which appears to have some slightly strange patch arrangement. This might indicate there’s some trickery needed for PAL versus NTSC camera connection? It does support pins 3 and 4 being the key video wires though.

Microphone

TE Connectivity 1379658-2, mating connector to make up your own wiring is 1379674-2.

9″ head units might have something different here, but I think the reason why people report poor audio quality on phone calls with the 9″ unit is because they probably have not correctly wired up the microphone preamp. The factory wiring accommodates this requirement, and it might be something you need to sort out with an aftermarket headunit, unless it comes with its own microphone.

Wiring is not properly described in any factory materials but I did find an Ignis discussion on wiring using the same pinout but different wiring colours.

The microphone connector might vary if an emergency call module is installed in Europe or other markets, without access to one of those cars I can’t verify.

Pin numberWire colourDescription
1Light greyGround (shield)
2PinkAudio signal
3Light greyGround
4Light bluePower (+5v?)

Not much else to add to this one, I’ll pull the interior light down and inspect which wires go where at some point. Note that at the microphone only 3 wires are connected, the two grey wires join up to 1 somewhere along the harness. Phantom power can be a bit tricky; thus it is probably easiest to skip using the car’s microphone and instead just use whatever one comes with the stereo you’re installing.

Removing the head unit

To start off with, you need to remove the lower cover just beneath the head unit itself.

The factory procedure just says to pull this out, but I found it easier to use a small trim removal tool to open up a gap from underneath on one side first.

This panel then is pulled just straight out from the dashboard – not up, not down, just straight out.

There are 2 screws beneath the head unit you can now access.

Unscrew these screws and remove them, and then the head unit just pulls out. Again, pull it straight from the dash. There are a couple of clips but it didn’t take me much force at all to get it out.

All very easy.

Note that the glossy black fascia comes out with the head unit; if you are fitting another head unit you need a fascia kit to provide you a nice looking fascia.

Aerpro do a fascia kit (which also comes with a bunch of the wiring you need): it is facia kit FP8496K

When putting the head unit back in, note that there are clips that you need to line up with holes at the top of the aperture to get the unit back in. It then just pushes back in, the screws go back in and the lower cover pressed back on.

Super easy infotainment system to deal with, really!

Fitting a new head unit

I’m really only putting this in for completeness. You need a replacement fascia that will work with your replacement head unit, and with the stereo out you then fit the new one. (You’ll also need to sort out the wiring, which I cover below).

If you just want a double DIN fascia for a flushmount or a floating head unit then there’s a few options:

There are also an increasing number of trapezoidal fascias to suit flushmount 9″ screens from Kenwood, Pioneer and Aerpro:

With that done, and the old head unit out and the wiring sorted, you just mount your stereo to your replacement fascia…

… and install it.

Easy peasy.

Wiring harnesses

Stereos are actually a great first mod, especially as there’s a lot of routes to getting it working correctly. While you can buy 100% premade wiring, often the solution is actually piecing together a few different pieces to adapt everything. If you also want to get in and get some experience at electrical work then doing it entirely yourself can be a fantastic way to learn, and also save some money (to reinvest in other modifications).

Selecting aftermarket wiring

This is an area of a lot of mystery for people, but it really isn’t too hard. The general principle most aftermarket wiring takes is:

  • Adapt car’s wiring to more universal connectors (usually ISO stereo)
  • Use universal connectors to your specific head unit adapter

You don’t necessarily need fancy CAN interfaces for the Jimny: the factory infotainment system in a 3 door Jimny does not use anything on CAN, just a couple of simple inputs. That said, most aftermarket wiring generally comes with some kind of universal car interface as that makes it easier to make it compatible with more stereos. You will find, however, most of them are patched straight through as they can map the 3 wires for the steering wheel controls straight to the universal steering wheel controls most aftermarket stereos use.

There are a few audio supply places who will do up a wiring harness to suit the car and the stereo you’re buying. I’ve been a fan of the support Karl at Overdrive Car Audio / Auto One Castle Hill has been doing for the Jimny community, so that would be my #1 recommendation.

Other than that, pretty much the usual standard is Aerpro in Australia for aftermarket wiring harnesses. Just note the camera harness they supply is not wired correctly (for a 3 door: it is for a 5 door, though). Since the camera from the factory is powered by putting the car into reverse then there’s no point doing anything other than hooking up the video feed on a 3 door anyway, unless you want to do something funky with having the camera always on.

Making up your own wiring harnesses

This area will be evolving, but in the back half of 2025 I’m upgrading my unit to a modern 9″ trapezoidal unit. Rather than buying wiring harnesses, I’ve decided I’ll do it myself from first principles for all of the main parts of the wiring.

You can buy plenty of commercial wiring setups including some fully plug and play options. You can also piece things together as I outline above from aftermarket stereo suppliers like Aerpro. For a lot of people that’s easier, but it isn’t necessarily hard or tricky to make up your own. While it doesn’t save a heap of money, it’s maybe $150-$250 cheaper to make up your own.

Main wiring

This really isn’t as hard as people might think. I can’t actually name the connector shells, but 20 pin Honda and Suzuki stereo wiring generally covers it. I bought the cheapest one I could find on aliexpress and that was about it.

Well, almost it. There weren’t enough wires and some were in the wrong places so I bought a couple of sets and repinned them as required. Not hard, using a depinning tool you just have to lift up the locking tab through the front of the connector and pull on the wire to extract it, and then move it. I had bought a couple to have spare connectors and connector shells, so I harvested extra from a spare to have enough wires.

A really good thing is the Suzuki factory wiring harness uses the ISO standard speaker wiring colours, so it’s very easy to line up the speaker wires and hook them up to your aftermarket stereo’s wire.

Reverse camera wiring

This again isn’t hugely problematic, you need a JAE Electronics IL-AG5-5P-S3C1 connector and appropriate pins to suit that connector. You will also need a female RCA connector to give you a video signal socket. There’s a few ways to get that but almost the easiest is just to buy an RCA lead and chop off the end, and the crimp the terminals onto the lead and put them into the shell.

I wanted my reverse camera to be able to be activated at any time, so there’s a bit of extra effort to repower it permanently rather than only when you put the car in reverse. This will require a bit more, pardon the pun, reverse engineering at the bumper end. (I did this as I want to use a front camera, too, and have the ability to see front and/or rear offroad even when not in reverse).

Factory microphone

This takes a teeny bit more effort. The factory microphone, if you wish to reuse it, uses a 5V signal to help amplify it. I bought a cheap 12V to 5V power adapter board, and the appropriate connector to plug into the wiring:

Handbrake/Vss/reverse connector

This needs the Yazaki 7282-5830 connector to hook into the factory harness (7283-5830 for the mating connector if you want to make up a piggyback connector for any reason). You then just need to connect the appropriate wires to match your head unit’s reverse, speed and handbrake inputs.

Factory USB port

I didn’t make this up myself because it was annoying to find the right connector. APSUUSB1 covers you though which is a Suzuki and Subaru USB port retention cable from Aerpro. There’s probably other suppliers, but pretty much use whatever you can get your hands on.

Factory antenna

This is another one that I didn’t make up myself, mostly down to a lack of time to source the correct connector. Aerpro adapter APA55 covers you though, and is pretty affordable (and very commonly available). The blue wire connects to the remote power signal from the head unit, which I’ll also be hooking up to an amplifier turn-on signal.

Steering wheel controls

On the car side of the wiring, these are covered by 3 pins on the main stereo connector. There is a common ground and then one covers the handsfree buttons, and one covers the audio buttons on the steering wheel. A lot of stereos can work with just a simple 3 wire connection and then you simply tell it which button is which to make the controls work. For my Pioneer head unit install this was the case; some aftermarket stereos might need universal interfaces instead and that’s not something I can directly advise on.

Speaker terminals and wiring

This seems to be the main thing people have issue with, surprisingly enough, when it comes to speaker upgrades. It’s actually relatively straightforwards to either make up your own harness to tap into the factory harness or even buy premade adapters.

The premade adapters required are Aerpro part number APS58. These provide you the appropriate connector to attach to the factory harness and then mate to your speaker. (Speaker terminals might be different to what is provided on these adapters, but that’s not hugely difficult to handle).

You can also buy a male and female connector set through Narva: part 56272BL is a 2 way connector set with terminals. You only need the female connector shell and the flat spade connectors; the male shell/ female spade connectors are what is already on the car’s wiring harness.

If you really want to go digging, the shell is a 2 way TE Connectivity unsealed 250 pin male connector shell and appropriate 250 pin spade connectors to latch into this housing. Eastern Beaver carry a compatible set as the Yazaki 250 unsealed connectors, 2 pin, just in a black plastic (Male 2P250-CNA is the part number to search for on that page). It is also available as Sumitomo LT series connectors are also available buit essentially discontinued (Male 2P250-LT).

Sourcing a set of genuine TE connectivity shells and terminals is a similar price as just buying the premade Aerpro speaker adapters so I recommend people go for the premade option unless you really want to make your own wiring harness.

Speaker wiring, namely the phasing of the speakers, is the other thing a lot of people ask about. I’ve just isolated the speaker wiring here: note that 3 doors already have the rear speaker wiring run complete with factory T shaped connector on it, even the lites with the basic radio system.

Learning from how Suzuki Australia fitted the 9″ Directed units in 2022

The 3 door cars in 2022 for the Australian market got fitted with a 9″ Directed head unit, due to supply issues with the Bosch 7″ SLDA unit. There’s a bit one can learn about making up your own wiring harness from how Suzuki Australia (or, rather, their supplier) tackled this task.

Base picture is from Kieren Gretschmann on a post in an Australian Facebook group

There’s a few things to note here:

  • One of the common issues with the Directed head units is really poor handsfree audio quality from the microphone. It looks like they are only connecting the audio signal to the factory microphone, thereby not pre-amplifying the microphone signal to the head unit.
  • The reverse camera wiring indicates you don’t need any fancy voltage supply systems or anything: they are just taking the video signal from the Australian delivered camera unit
  • There are no interface requirements for the steering wheel controls, indicating they’re the default 3 wire option (ground and two key signal wires)
  • Only the reverse signal input is provided to the unit. Vss presumably is from the main factory connector, if indeed it’s hooked up, and maybe the Directed unit does not require handbrake status unlike many aftermarket units do.
  • USB is to the factory wiring; supposedly the USB port on the cars is substandard in a MY22 car, but this at least shows the internal wiring is the same as the Bosch 7″ units
  • The antenna cable does have the remote power connected, presumably as it is an amplified antenna unit on the car. Probably a good idea to do this for your own install then!

Speaker upgrade using 5.25″ speakers and factory brackets

Front speakers

Door trim removal is where this starts. You first remove the bit of trim on the inside of the door at the top of the door trim. Just lever this away from the door with a trim removal tool, or if you have strong fingers you can just grab it and pull it straight out away from the door.

Next up there are 3 screws to remove. Two are just beneath the door pull handle, and 1 is by the door release. For some reason I didn’t take photos of the two beneath the door handle, but they are kind of obvious. The door release one is a bit sneakier for most people.

Again, just lever the trim straight away from the door using a trim removal tool.

With the trim off, you will have your first look at the amazing 4″ speaker provided by the factory. If you’re very cheap and don’t care about destruction, you can actually punch the main part of the speaker out, remove it, and then you have an already installed adapter to the larger hole inside the door.

Unscrew the factory speaker with the 3 screws that you can now see, and this will reveal the wiring behind.

There are 3 plastic screw mounts into the panel. If you reach behind, you can squeeze their two tabs and remove them. The below picture shows you the two tabs per screw mount, if you squeeze these in then the plastic bit can be pushed out from the back revealing 3 holes in the door.

I believe the factory adapter rings came with their own speed nuts to allow screwing of the mounts to the doors using these now revealed holes; they were perfect for an M5 rivnut so I used them instead. I just like bolts in cars, I guess.

It’s just nicer having proper threads in there.

Quick note on wiring. Polarity on speakers sort of doesn’t matter, so long as all your speakers in your car work the same way. This means the speakers move the same way with a positive or a negative voltage applied to them; it sounds weird if they don’t!

For the front left speaker: white is positive, blue is negative; for the front right speaker it is red for positive and yellow for negative.

As noted in the what you’ll need part, the factory brackets have holes drilled for the 13cm Pioneer speakers. A lot of 5.25″ speakers will have a slightly different mounting pattern; no biggie, just need a drill and you can sort this very easily. I used the speaker to ensure it was centred in the mount and just drilled 3 new holes slightly out from the originals.

At this point someone probably is going to ask for hole dimensions and stuff for the cutout in the door and the biggest speakers they can fit. The answer is… I don’t know. I suspect you could get shallow 6″ speakers in with appropriate adapter rings, but beyond that I can’t help much. 5.25″ definitely works though.

With the wiring sorted and the adapter ring in, just chuck the speaker in and screw it down.

There is one final touch that is worth doing, and that’s using a little stick-on foam insulation to seal the speaker against the door trim. It’s a small thing but it will make a huge difference to audio quality.

Reinstall the door trim – remembering to put any of the plastic trim clips back into the door panel if they got left behind in the door itself – and then the upper trim and you’re sorted.

Rear speakers

I ran rear speakers for a few years, but after removing the rear seats I also decided to remove my rear speakers. They do fill out the sound a bit, but they don’t add much in terms of volume. If you’re on a budget, just spend up on better front speakers and sound deadening over putting in rear speakers, I think.

To access the area where the rear speakers are mounted, you can just remove the top part of the trim on each side of the car. Some people choose to remove the seats and then the entire trim panel, but I found it easier to just pop the top out.

Start by getting to the two trim rivets at the top of the trim where the seatbelt goes into the body of the car.

Then you can just pull the top of the trim away.

The wiring for rear speakers is already run for JB74s, it’s just taped up to the wiring loom where the speakers go on each side.

A note here on the wiring polarity: rear left is purple for positive and brown for negative; rear right has pink as positive and beige as negative.

Time to offer up your chosen speaker up to the rear brackets.

As noted, the speakers I have chosen don’t share a mounting bolt pattern with the Pioneers that Suzuki selected. That’s no biggie – there’s room for mounting holes further out on the brackets, at least for 5.25″ speakers.

You can do this as simply as drilling a small hole and using self tapping screws, but I decided to use M5 rivnuts to make it a bit fancier. To make this a bit nicer and consistent, use the speaker to mark out the first hole, and then drill & sort out mounting for this first hole alone; then mount the speaker fully using this, and then use the speaker to mark the other 3.

In my case, now the rivnut goes in for this first hole.

Then time to mark out the other holes and drill them and sort out mounting.

Speaker is then ready to be mounted up.

The final bit to sort here is the wiring. Here I’m doing some stuff to give me speaker outputs to the underseat subwoofer, just omit the 2nd set of wires if you are sorting it out.

The rear speaker connectors in the car are T-shaped plugs; One option is these connectors and you can also use Narva 56272BL.

You only need the male side and if you want to make it easier, just wire it with male spade connectors and they’ll plug in.

As per the above, rear left is purple for positive and brown for negative; rear right has pink as positive and beige as negative. The other way to think of this is the top of the T of the connector is the negative terminal. So with this sorted, either get your spade connectors or the proper T connector sorted and wired up to your speakers.

Now you just put the bracket in and screw it into the car with the supplied screws. There’s an official torque spec for these bolts, hilariously: 5.5 Nm. I wouldn’t bother getting the torque wrench out for it.

Good idea to seal the speaker against the trim using some insulation, too, and there’s a little sound deadening over the holes for the speaker in the trim to remove, too. No pics of this apparently, it’s fairly obvious.

With everything sorted, trim goes back in and put in the plastic rivets by the seatbelt and you’re sorted!

Making provision for an under-seat subwoofer

The factory 7″ head unit does not have line-level outputs; I believe the much maligned 9″ unit does. If you get an underseat subwoofer which accepts speaker level inputs then you’ll have an easier time. To get speaker wires down to it, I used the rear speakers & wired in output to the subwoofer at the same point as I connected rear speaker wiring up.

It’s that simple. The extra set of wire can just be run down the trim and out and under the carpet to your underseat subwoofer, giving you a neat connection. Where the wires are joined I just crimped them into the spade connectors to go into the rear speaker T-connector.

As it turns out, I ended up saving installing the under-seat subwoofer until I upgraded the head unit and used a line level output so this modification was redundant, but it might be inspiration for someone for a way to have rear speakers & have a high level output for use for a subwoofer’s input.

Speaker upgrade using amplified 6.25″ split speakers and under-seat subwoofer

This is my 2025 upgrade path, designed to replicate but be better than one of the JDM factory optional stereo setups. This included a replacement head unit, but assuming you use an amplifier that can take a high level input you can also do this with a standard stereo.

Amplifier install

For this installation, I chose to make up a bracket to hold my amplifier behind my glove box. Start by removing the glove box.

With the glove box removed, I use a bit of sheet metal to make up a bracket to hold my amp in place.

To power the amplifier, I have gone for somewhat overkill and run an 8AWG wire from my auxiliary power circuit midi fuse in the engine bay over to the passengers side and through the grommet.

I also split off the power lead here with a 15A inline fuse to power my underseat subwoofer.

RCA cables take the signal from the head unit down to the amplifier. I hate excess cable so I shortened commercial cables.

Front speaker install

Under-seat subwoofer install

The factory route

There’s a couple of factory upgrades available for the gen4 Jimnys.

The Australian kits (part numbers starting 990AA) use some entire world accessory brackets:

  • Ultimate package: 4 upgraded speakers and brackets plus the under-seat subwoofer. This is part number 990AA-01223-PK1.
  • Upgraded speakers and their brackets together is 990AA-01223-PK2
  • Underseat subwoofer 990AA-01223-PK3
  • Upgraded speaker pair 99000-79BJ0-R00
  • The factory speakers appear to be Pioneer TS-G1320F speakers.

There is also a semi-factory Japanese option using Pioneer 6.3″ speakers (though 4″ speakers are also compatible):

5 door Jimny XL details

While I don’t have a 5 door Jimny, not am I likely to, this page does sometimes get referred to by owners with 5 door Jimnys.

The 5 doro Jimnys have some similarities and some differences; chiefly the head unit has some more functionality around stuff like fuel economy but also it has different wiring, using a 24 pin connector.

I believe the 5 door Jimny head unit is the Clarion sourced Smartplay Pro infotainment system. This owners manual is from an earlier model (a 2022 model head unit) but might be useful.

I don’t have ready access to 5 door wiring diagrams and there’s only so far I’m prepared to go rehosting other people’s content or things I can’t verify, however, this webpage looks like it could be a useful jumping off point for people with Jimny XLs looking for info on head unit wiring.