2019 Jimny – what switches go where?
tl;dr: 32x22mm short Toyota switches for dashboard, 35x19mm for centre console
One of the joys of owning something like the Jimny is the ability to modify it how you see fit. A huge part of these modifications are adding accessories that might need some control in the form of switches.
There’s two sized switches used in the interior of the Jimny: short Toyota sized switches for the push switches in the dashboard, and also some almost-but-not-exactly-tall-Toyota switches used in the centre console (I think for heated seats in European models).
To record switch info I’ve pulled together the following table including other options that you might use if you go a bit more custom with mounting switches. The model list is so you can use ebay to buy appropriate switches if needed, but it is not meant to be an exhaustive list of models. Also, most of my information has been gathered from the Australian market so other cars available overseas might have different switch options.
| Switch name | Size (mm) | OE models | Fit in Jimny? |
| Short Toyota | 32.5 x 22mm | Prado 150, 200; LandCruiser 200; Rav4 ’04-’11; Hilux ’15+; GT86 ’12-’18; Camry ’11-’14; Corolla ’06-’13; Fortuner ’16-’18 | Yes, dash |
| Carling/ARB/generic 4wd or marine | 36.82 x 21mm | Generic 4wd or marine switches | Yes, centre console with mods. Seemed to fit centre console after making cutouts taller |
| Tall Toyota | 39 x 21mm | Prado 120; LandCruiser 100; LandCruiser 79; FJ Cruiser ’10-’13; HiLux ’05-’13; HiAce ’05-’13 | Modify centre console holes to be taller and wider |
| Mitsubishi | 35 x 18mm | ML-MN Triton; Challenger ’09-’15; Pajero ’02-’15 | Slightly too narrow for centre console |
| Nissan tall | 35 x 21mm | Pathfinder R51 ’05-’12; Navara D40 ’08-’14; GU4-7, Y61, Y62 Patrol ’00+; X-Trail T31 ’07-’13 | Slightly too wide for centre console |
| Nissan short | 30 x 23mm | Pathfinder R51 ’12+; Navara NP300 ’15+; X-Trail T32 ’14+ | Too short and too wide |
| Holden & Isuzu angled | 38.6 x 22.5mm | Colorado ’08-’12; D-Max ’09-’12; Rodeo ’03-’18 | Too wide and too tall |
| Holden & Isuzu flat | 34 x 22mm | Colorado ’13-’16; D-Max ’13-’16 | Slightly too short and too wide |
| Ford/Mazda | 39 x 23mm | Ford PX, PK Ranger (’07-’15); Mazda BT50 (’11-current) | Too tall and too wide |
| Dash blanking plate | 32.5 x 22 mm | 37285-74P11-000 or 37285-74P00-000 | |
| Centre console (seat heater) blanking plate | 37285-75F30-000 or 37285-75F10-000 |
From time to time people have produced some 3D printed adapters e.g. for the toll device aperture on the dashboard beneath the factory dash switches, or for the centre console. I haven’t used any so I can’t report on how well they work or which one to get.
Factory dash switch wiring
The key to understanding the factory dash switch wiring is that it is not connecting a 12V circuit and putting that 12V somewhere else. Instead, it is connecting a pin on the BCM to ground in order to perform some function. All 3 factory switches in a 3 door Jimny are momentary switches i.e. they do not latch on. You do have to hold the lane departure (LDW) or autonomous braking (AEB) switches to turn off those functions. Lane departure stays off until you re-engage it, even if you turn the car off and back on again. AEB resumes on every start.
Note that the headlight washer will only wash the headlights when they are on.
| Pin | Colour | Used for |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Black | Switch output (to ground) |
| 2 | Purple | Illumination ground (varies with dash brightness) |
| 3 | Red | Illumination +12V |
| 4 | Beige: AEB Green: LDW Beige: H/L washer | Switch input AEB: BCM LDW: BCM H/L wash: pin 20, H/L levelling module |
| 5 | N/A | Unused |
Dash switch illumination
A common question asked by people installing aftermarket switches in the dashboard is how to source an appropriate feed for the switch illumination. The easiest option is to directly tap into the illumination of one of the existing factory switches. Behind each factory switch is a 5 pin connector, the red wire should be the illumination wire. That’s at least according to the wiring diagram I have handy.
The more in depth option would be to source the correct plugs for the dash switches (Sumitomo 6098-3810 and 6098-3802 for both the male and female plugs) and make up a short nice piggyback harness.
If you’re fitting these to a 5 pin short toyota generic switch you will probably find IL-AG5-5S-S3C1 plugs into them. 6 pin variant as used on dual input dual switching elements like the Lightforce custom switches I have utilise the IL-AG5-6S-S3C1 6 pin connector. (Corresponding female plugs for these are IL-AG5-5P-S3C1 and IL-AG5-6P-S3C1 in case you need to have the mating plug as well)
Dimming the illumination
While the factory switches have +12V on the red wire (pin 3), they dim their backlighting using the ground wire (purple – pin 2). You need compatible switches to make this work – not every switch has LEDs capable of dimming in this way – and your switch needs to not use that ground in the switching circuit (e.g. some aftermarket driving light harnesses do this as they switch the relay via the switch completing the ground side of the circuit for the switching side).
Done correctly they’ll dim, noting the video angle makes this look a bit weird on the Lightforce custom dual switch next to the JC74 factory dual lane departure/AEB cancelling switch.
Factory dual switch from 5 door
I bought the genuine 5 door switch for the dashboard which combines lane departure warning and the autonomous braking disabling switch. This is part number 37692M80T00 and cost me ~AU$39 in early 2025. Once I’ve sorted out the appropriate connector – as it’s different from the 3 door – then I’ll do up my own wiring for this. In the meantime I am using Trac Electronics harness to use this switch in a 3 door Jimny.
The connector *might* be the 8 pin 6098-5269 Sumitomo NH series unsealed inline connector (bought some and it looks like it is).
Pretty easy to fit: they have marked the colours of the plugs in the factory wiring harness so fairly easy to plug in. I did verify which was the lane departure and which was the AEB cancelling switch though using a multimeter just to make sure though.
Aftermarket dual switches
I’ve used a few aftermarket dual switches. So far I haven’t found a good match for the factory switch illumination colours but I can live with that. I’ve tried a few sources of these and I have had much more success with the Lightforce custom switch configurator, noting that this isn’t the cheapest option. However, the switches have been more reliable so there’s that.
Wiring these up aren’t too hard; there are 6 wires:
- Two wires are for the top switch: red and blue
- Two wires are for the bottom switch: white and green
- Two wires for illumination circuit: yellow (+12V) and black (ground)
These do not need to be used with a 12V input and output: they work perfectly with the BCM lead on one side and the ground connection on the other if you wire them up to match the factory connectors.
This is my attempt to make a switch where the top function of the switch is the headlight washer switch and the bottom is my latching switch for driving lights.
Here it is plugged into the factory wiring: direct fitment, no cutting or splicing necessary, and gives me perfect functionality and even dimming illumination just like a factory switch.
Accessing the switches isn’t too hard to replace them or mix things up. It is easiest to pull off the panel beneath the switches: it basically comes straight backwards away from the dashboard, then unplug the mirror adjustment control panel with the single connector on this panel. With that done you can reach up and kind of access the clips that hold the switches in and press them to get the switch to come out a bit, then try to get the other clip to release. Soon enough you have a bunch of switches and wiring hanging out of your dash.
I have a few switches made up like this; my current dash switch arrangement is:
- Lane departure and AEB cancellation switch (factory JC74 switch)
- Headlight washer & driving lights
- Underbody lights & accessory permanent power
- Compressor and winch power
- USB-C and USB-A power delivery ports for fast phone charging
I also have a dual front/rear locker switch for the centre console (albeit only with the rear locker installed at the moment!)