Jimny propshafts and uni joints
All things servicing, fixing or replacing the Jimny propshafts and the uni joints.
This page is more of a notepad while I buy some consumables prior to doing some propshaft work myself.
- Propshaft details
- Service consumables
- Intermediate
- Rear
- Front
- Removal/refitting instructions
- Intermediate
- Rear
- Front
- Repair instructions
- Rear: CV boot
- Rear: uni joint
- Front: uni joints
- Front: sliding joint boot
Details
There’s 3 propshafts for the Jimny:
- Between the gearbox and the transfer case
I call this the intermediate propshaft or intermediate driveshaft - Between the transfer case and the rear axle
I call this the rear propshaft or rear driveshaft - Between the transfer case and the front axle
I call this the front propshaft or front driveshaft
Each of these have different drive constructions and joints.
Service consumables
Intermediate
Entire shaft: 27101-77R00. Bolts on the transfer case input flange are replaced if shaft is removed, 09117-08079, M8 x 20 mm. 50 Nm, apparently, which seems a bit much for the size of bolts they are but Suzuki seem adamant of that.
The uni joints are staked in and non-replacable. I am not aware of any service to convert these to changeable uni joints. The service consumables for this shaft, therefore, is entirely just a new shaft.
If you’re on a budget, buy one from a wreckers. If you are feeling fancy or can afford it, order it genuine.
Note that auto and manuals use exactly the same intermediate propshaft; there is no difference between transmissions.
Rear
Entire propshaft is 27103-77R01, superseded from the older part number of 27103-77R00. Only the rear has a uni joint; the front is a CV joint. CV joint is not available separately, officially fixing this or replacing the CV involves buying an entire propshaft.
Officially, the bolts are not to be reused when you remove this propshaft for any work on it. Gearbox and diff end bolts are all the same M10-1.25 x 25 mm bolts, 09112-10002. Transfer case end gets done up to 33 Nm; rear differential end gets done up to 50 Nm.
Part number for the uni joint in this shaft is 27200-83813, superseding the old part number of 27200-83812. The older part number didn’t have grease nipples, and neither does the new one. The older part number is effectively Koyo KC 1518CC-1.
Mitsubishi MR196837 is a replacement uni joint which should work – did on previous generations – and gives you a greasable option. Mitsubishi MR350138 does not feature a grease nipple, and has a slightly different seal arrangement to the Suzuki part number.
Uni joint information research is helped out by the excellent wiki effort at BigJimny.
Grease for the uni joints is 99000–25030, Super Grease C, a lithium-based NGLI2 grease.
Circlips are included in the official part number, but if buying aftermarket may not be included. 51118-36213 is the Suzuki part number;
Front
Entire propshaft is 27102-77R00.
As per the rear, the front propshaft officially requires all bolts to be replaced when the shaft is removed. Same bolts as the rear: M10-1.25 x 25 mm bolts, part number 09112-10002. Torque is the same for both front and rear flanges: 50 Nm.
Uni joints are the same as the rears, except you have two uni joints in this one instead of one. See notes for the rear for what part numbers are there and what else cross-fits.
Rubber boot on the front propshaft for the sliding joint is 27153-77R00, which is not hugely expensive as a genuine part. There is a grease nipple on this shaft, which greases the sliding joint. Grease is the same Super Grease C as used in the uni joints.
Removal/refitting instructions
Intermediate
Mark the shaft flange to the transfer flange orientation with a scribe or a paint marker.
Use a screwdriver to hold the shaft from turning by poking it through the yoke, be careful not to split the seals if you are reusing the shaft.
Undo.
Once off the transfer, shaft slides out of the gearbox output. If the gearbox output shaft is pointing downhill, note that you will get some oil spilling out so be prepared for this. Or, drain the gearbox oil first.
Refit: clean the splines, slide it in, use new bolts and tighten up.
Rear
Mark orientation of each of the shaft to its respective flanges either with a scribe or a paint pen.
Hold shaft with a screwdriver or other lever, taking care not to damage the uni joint seals.
To refit, line stuff up, tighten stuff up and use new bolts.
Front
Mark orientation of each of the shaft to its respective flanges either with a scribe or a paint pen.
Hold shaft with a screwdriver or other lever, taking care not to damage the uni joint seals.
To refit, line stuff up, tighten stuff up and use new bolts.
Repair instructions
Rear: CV boot
These have been known to rip. Suzuki don’t sell a replacement boot or have repair instructions on how to replace one; officially they will only supply you an entire driveshaft.
Some people have had luck using a universal CV joint funnel to slip on a new boot, and using a Lada Niva driveshaft boot. I have one of these on hand to try repairing one at some point when an appropriately broken one falls into my lap. Part number is Lada part 21213-2202068, easiest bought out of Russia or from former Soviet states; a common source is a seller from Ukraine on ebay.
Rear: uni joint
Front: uni joints
The front propshaft uses uni joints at each end. These joints are the same, and in fact also the same as used on the rear propshaft’s uni joint. Replacement is much the same.
Front: sliding joint boot
The front propshaft’s sliding joint has a boot which has been known to fail. It can also go hard over time and crack, flinging out grease from the slip joint.
The boot is not expensive and easily bought genuine. I’m not aware of a non-genuine replacement. If you do a lot of rock crawling, mud work or water crossings then I would buy one and have it at home. If you do a lot of hard 4wding I’d be probably regreasing the sliding joint every year or two, if not sooner.